This coastal corner of Cuba is flushed by 29 rivers, its hills are full of royal palms, chocolate trees and coffee bushes, and the wildlife wins world records: the planet’s smallest bird, bat and frog can all be found in Baracoa. While most visits to Cuba focus on the white-sand northern beaches and islands, or the crumbling charms of Havana and Trinidad, Baracoa serves up a more complex and alluring platter. Here, in a few days, you can climb mountains, swim in cool rivers, bathe on beaches, explore Indian remains, and gorge on chocolate and coconut.